You are currently browsing the monthly archive for Julho 2011.

Anúncios

(…) Depois de preparar o ponche divertimo-nos a comer ostras, passando-as um ao outro quando já as tínhamos na boca. Ela oferecia-me a sua sobre a sua língua ao mesmo tempo que eu lhe metia na boca a minha. Não há jogo mais lascivo, mais voluptuoso entre dois apaixonados. Até é cómico, e a sua comicidade não desgasta, porque o riso só está feito para os que são felizes. Que bom está o molho de uma ostra que chupo da boca da pessoa que adoro! É a sua saliva. A intensidade do amor não pode deixar de aumentar quando a mastigo, quando a engulo! (…)

in,  “História da minha vida”, Giacomo Casanova, Tradução de Nuno Castro e Paulo Azeredo

O primeiro restaurante gourmet para plantas: um projecto de Jonathon Keats explicado em entrevista no blog Edible Geography.

http://bydiddo.com/?id=13

 

THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE.

MY DEAR ELOISE,

Having now arrived at the conclusion of our labors, during -which you have in many instances thought me rather severe, and perhaps too exigeant in my remarks, especially about the selection, preparation, and cooking of food in general, which even to the last I must maintain, that for want of judgment and a little care, the greatest part of the nutrition of our aliments is often destroyed, which constitutes a considerable waste, being of no good to any one, but an evil to everybody ; and when you consider the monstrous quantity of food our fragile bodies consume in this sublunary sphere during the course of our life, the truth of my observation will be more apparent, and make you agree with me that in every instance people ought really to devote more tune, care, and personal attention to their daily subsistence, it being the most expensive department through life of human luxury. I shall, for example, give you a slight and correct idea of it, wliich I am confident you never before conceived. For this I shall propose to take seventy years of the life of an epicure, beyond wich age many of that class of ” bon vivants” arrive, and even above eighty, still in the full enjoyment of degustation, fcc., (for example, Talleyrand, Cambaceres, Lord Sefton, cfec.) if the first of the said epicures when entering on the tenth spring of his extraordinary career, had been placed on an eminence, say, the top of Primrose hill, and had had exhibited before his infantine eyes the enormous quantity of food his then insignificant person would destroy before he attained his seventy-first year, first, he would believe it must be a delusion; then, secondly, he would inquire, where the money could come from to purchase so much luxurious extravagance ? But here I shall leave the pecuniary expenses on one side, which a man of wealth can easily surmount when required.

So now, dearest, for the extraordinary fact : imagine on the top of the above-mentioned hill a rushlight of a boy just entering his tenth year, surrounded with the recherche provision and delicacies claimed by his rank and wealth, taking merely the medium consumption of his daily meals. By closely calculating he would be surrounded and gazed at by the following number of quadrupeds, birds, fishes, &c. : By no less than 30 oxen, 200 sheep, 100 calves, 200 lambs, 50 pigs ; in poultry, 1200 fowls, 300 turkeys, 150 geese, 400 ducklings, 263 pigeons ; 1400 partridges, pheasants, and grouse ; 600 woodcocks and snipes ; 600 wild ducks, widgeon, and teal ; 450 plovers, ruffes, and reeves ; 800 quails, ortolans, and dotterels, and a few guillemots and other foreign birds ; also 500 hares and rabbits, 40 deer, 120 Guinea fowl, 10 peacocks, and 360 wild fowl In the way of fish, 120 turbot, 140 salmon, 120 cod, 260 trout, 400 mackerel, 300 whitings, 800 soles and slips, 400 flounders, 400 red mullet, 200 eels, 150 haddocks, 400 herrings, 5000 smelts, and some hundred thousand of those delicious silvery whitebait, besides a few hundred species of fresh- water fishes. In shell-fish, 20 turtle, 30,000 oysters, 1500 lobsters or crabs, 300,000 prawns, shrimps, sardines and anchovies. In the way of fruit, about 500 Ibs. of grapes, 360 Ibs. of pine-apples, 600 peaches, 1400 apricots, 240 melons, and some hundred thousand plums, greengages, apples, pears, and some millions of cherries, strawberries, raspberries, currants, mulberries, and an abundance of other small fruit, viz., walnuts, chestnuts, dry figs and plums. In vegetables of all kinds, 5475 pounds weight, and about 2434| pounds of butter, 684 pounds of cheese, 21,000 eggs, 800 do. plovers’. Of bread, 4 tons, half a ton of salt and pepper, near 2% tons of sugar ; and, if he had happened to be a covetous boy, he could have formed a fortification or moat round the said hill with the liquids he would have to partake of to facilitate the digestion of the above-named provisions, which would amount to no less than 11,673| gallons, which may be taken as below : 49 hogsheads of wine, 1368| gallons of beer, 584 gallons of spirits, 342 liqueur, 2394| gallons of coffee, cocoa, tea, fec., and 304 gallons of milk, 2736 gallons of water, all of which would actually protect him and his anticipated property from any young tliief or fellow schoolboy, like Alexandre Dumas had protected Dante and his immense treasure from the pirates in his island of Monte Christo. You now, dearest, fancy that I am exaggerating in every way ; but to convince you, and to prevent your puzzling your brain to no purpose, I also enclose you a medium scale of the regular meals of the day, from which I have taken my basis, and in sixty years it amounts to no less than 33 tons weight of meat, farinaceous food and vegetables, &c. ; out of which I have named in detail the probable delicacies that would be selected by an epicure through life. But observe that I did not count the first ten years of his life, at the beginning of which he lived upon pap, bread and milk, &c., also a little meat, the expense of which I add to the age from then to twenty, as no one can really be called an epicure before that age ; it will thus make the expenses more equal as regards the calculation. The following is the list of what I consider his daily meals :

Breakfast.

Three quarters of a pint of coffee, four ounces of bread, one ounce of butter, two eggs, or four ounces of meat, or four ounces of fish.

Lunch.

Two ounces of bread, two ounces of meat, or poultry, or game, two ounces of vegetables, and half a pint of beer or a glass of wine.

Dinner.

Half a pint of soup, a quarter of a pound of fish, half a pound of meat, a quarter of a pound of poultry, a quarter of a pound of savory dishes or game, two ounces of vegetables, two ounces of bread, two ounces of pastry or roasts, half an ounce of cheese, a quarter of a pound of fruit, one pint of wine, one glass of liqueur, one cup of coffee or tea ; at night one glass of spirits and water.

Now that I have given you these important details, perhaps you will give me some little credit for my exaction and severity respecting the attention which ought to be daily paid to the indispensable and useful art of cookery by our middle classes. I shall also observe to you, that those masses of provisions above described in the expose of sixty years, have been selected, dressed, and served, by scientific hands, every real epicure choosing through life the best cook, and consequently the best of provisions, which, had they have fallen into the hands ofinexperienced persons, would very likely have wasted one third, thereby increasing the expenses, and never giving any real satisfaction to the consumer ; therefore let us act in a small way as becomes us, as it is for the wealthy according to their incomes ; let every housekeeper devote more time to the study of domestic and practical economy; in many instances it will increase their incomes as well as their daily comforts, as I remarked to you that the pleasures of the table being not only the most expensive part of human luxury, but also the soul of sociability, require more attention bestowed upon it than is done at the present day.

Fare you well,

HORTENSE.

in, “The Modern Housewife Or Ménagère”, Alexys Soyer, 1851

Fotos de Christopher Jonassen do livro Devour.

Foto: “The Banquet” , Mark Daughhetee

(…) It was, indeed, a wonderful achievement that today, in Berlin, 1,000 state cookshops, each one capable of accommodating 1,000 persons, should have been opened at one stroke. True, those persons who had imagined that it would be like the table d’hôte of the great hotels of the past days, where a pampered upper class continually reveled in every refinement of culinary art — such persons, I say, must feel some little disappointment. As a matter of course, we have here likewise no trim, swallow-tailed waiters, no bills of fare a yard long, and no such paraphernalia.

In the state cookshops everything, even to the smallest details, has been anticipated and settled beforehand. No one person obtains the smallest preference over others. The picking and choosing amongst the various state cookshops cannot, of course, be tolerated. Each person has the right to dine at the cookshop of the district in which his dwelling is situated. The chief meal of the day is taken between 12 o’clock and 6 in the evening. Everyone has to report himself at the cookshop of his district, either during the midday rest or at the close of the day.

I am sorry to say that I can now no longer take my meals with my wife except on Sundays, as I have been accustomed to do for the last 25 years, inasmuch as our hours of labor are now entirely different.

Upon entering the dining room an official detaches the dinner coupon from your book of money certificates, and hands you a number that indicates your turn. In the course of time others get up and go away, and your turn comes, and you fetch your plate of victuals from the serving tables. The strictest order is maintained by a strong body of police present. The police today — their number has now been augmented here to 12,000 — rather gave themselves airs of importance in the state cookshops, but the fact is, the crowd was a very big one. It seems to me that Berlin proves itself to be on too small a scale for the vast undertakings of Socialism.

As each one takes his place, just as he comes from his work, the groups sometimes have a somewhat motley appearance. Opposite to me today sat a miller, and his neighbor was a sweep. The sweep laughed at this more heartily than the miller. The room at the tables is very cramped, and the elbows at each side hinder one much. However, it is not for long, the minutes allowed for eating being very stingily measured. At the expiration of the meagerly apportioned minutes — and a policeman with a watch in his hand stands at the head of each table to see that time is strictly kept — you are remorselessly required to make room for the next.

It is an inspiring thought to reflect that in every state cookshop in Berlin, on one-and-the-same day exactly the same dishes are served. As each establishment knows how many visitors it has to count upon, and as these visitors are saved all the embarrassment of having to choose from a lengthy bill of fare, it is clear that no time is lost; whilst there is also none of that waste and loss consequent upon a lot of stuff being left, which circumstance used so much to enhance the price of dining at the restaurants of the upper classes. Indeed, this saving may well be reckoned amongst the most signal triumphs of the socialistic organization.

From what a neighbor of ours, who is a cook, tells us, it had originally been intended to serve up various dishes on the same day. It soon appeared, however, that there would be a manifest want of equality in such an arrangement; inasmuch as those persons who, from any reason, were prevented from coming in good time would not have the chance of dining off such dishes as were “off,” but would have to take whatever was left.

All the portions served out are of the same size. One insatiable fellow today who asked for more was rightly served by being heartily laughed at. For what more deadly blow could be leveled at one of the fundamental principles of equality? For the same reason the suggestion to serve out smaller portions to women was at once indignantly rejected. Big, bulky men have to put up with the same-sized portions, and to do as best they can. But, then, for such amongst them who, in their former easy circumstances, used to stuff themselves, this drawing in of their belt is quite a good and wholesome thing. For the rest, people can bring with them from their homes as much bread as they like, and eat it with their meals. Furthermore, any persons who find their portions larger than they care for are not prohibited from giving a part to their neighbors. (…)

in, Pictures of the Socialistic Future, Eugen Richter (1838–1906)

 

“Nunca comas mais do que o que consegues levantar”.

Miss Piggy

!

1

(…) Pues ¿qué os pudiera contar, Señora, de los secretos naturales que he descubierto estando guisando? Veo que un huevo se une y fríe en la manteca o aceite y, por contrario, se despedaza en el almíbar; ver que para que el azúcar se conserve fluida basta echarle una muy mínima parte de agua en que haya estado membrillo u otra fruta agria; ver que la yema y clara de un mismo huevo son tan contrarias, que en los unos, que sirven para el azúcar, sirve cada una de por sí y juntos no. Por no cansaros con tales frialdades, que sólo refiero por daros entera noticia de mi natural y creo que os causará risa; pero, señora, ¿qué podemos saber las mujeres sino filosofías de cocina? Bien dijo Lupercio Leonardo, que bien se puede filosofar y aderezar la cena. Y yo suelo decir viendo estas cosillas: Si Aristóteles hubiera guisado, mucho más hubiera escrito. (…)

In, Respuesta de la poetisa a la muy ilustre Sor Filotea de la Cruz”, Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz


PinturaCockaigne, Vicent Desiderio

 

Pinturas a óleo: Will Cotton (2010)

Diógenes de Sínope também conhecido como Diógenes, o Cínico, confrontado com o seu estranho hábito de se masturbar em público, , terá dito: se ao menos me pudesse ver livre da fome esfregando a barriga.

Bookmark and Share
Bookmark and Share